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When assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. But, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.